Tuesday, January 29, 2008

Passage to India

My New York posse rolls 8 deep. There's Julie, the former advice columnist and future HBO exec, Jane, the architect with a heart of gold, Liz, the loyal young teacher with legs to her ears, Lila, the brassy, sassy life of the party, Katie, the one most likely to live happily ever after, Andrea, the incorrigible flirt, and Shane, the brains and brawn of the operation.

Our gift-giving theme for Secret Santa this past Christmas was a flight of the imagination --- the working(wo)man's holiday. We each wrote our names and a country that we've always dreamed of visiting and tossed the scraps of paper into a hat. Santas would select gifts in keeping with the fantasy vacation.

It was in a dead heat with Morocco, but I chose India as "my" country because I am intrigued by its juxtaposition of old and new, sacred and vulgar, razzle-dazzle and dirt-poor. Its ceremonies, movies, costumes, jewelry, and colors are life-affirming and inspiring. (At left: my snake charmer costume for a "Burlesque Circus" fancy dress party in Dublin in 2005.)

I remember going to a celebration for Ganesh on a windswept beach near San Francisco as a kid. The idol is submerged into the sea, mums scatter and float away, the scent of camphor fills the air: it was thrilling, if odd. I loved the story of Ganesh, that tragic, elephant-headed young prince; I fell for Indian mythology almost as hard as I fell the soap opera tales of the Greek gods and gray whales (twin obsessions circa age 9.) At 23, I got a tattoo of an Indian elephant. They're gentle, loyal and so strong and disciplined they can move mountains. They mourn their dead.

My adopted mom is one-fourth Indian. In the early 70s, she went on a sojourn to live with relatives there. In photos, she stands with aunts and cousins of some remove, wearing a nose ring, her hair thick, long, and oiled. She is so beautiful. She still has many of her saris. When my dad and I moved in with her, my double-height bedroom window was hung with a silk sari of saturated purple and pink that cast a glow like the inside of a genie's bottle.

Over the years, there has been talk of a family trip to India, but my sister and I have had to make do with beautiful saris which our parents bought for us in 2003 in a "little India" neighborhood in Chicago. I've never found an occasion to wear mine outside dress-up in the house. You'd think one would make a reason.

And the food! For years, I didn't like Indian flavors, so complex and fiery, and then my taste buds woke up and now, oh, I do. It was really a no-brainer for Katie, the one who picked my name out of the hat. She presented me with a red silk scarf with silver embroidery and a cookbook, The Food of India: A Journey for Food Lovers.

Tonight I took my roommates and our taste buds on a little magic carpet ride to India. But as it was a work night, I kept it very simple (one could argue it's hardly Indian cooking at all, then!). Dear Jane brought home take-out naan, potato samosas, and a few other little nibbles to round out the meal.

From American Food Writing, I made Madhur Jaffrey's moong dal, pea-green, cumin-scented "everyday" lentils from the woman who taught the West to cook with spice (she published An Invitation to Indian Cooking in 1973 as well as a series of other influential cookbooks and appeared, as an actor, in over 15 films). From The Food of India, I made yakhni pulao, rice flavored with cardamom and cinnamon. And finally, a dish of my own invention: roasted curry cauliflower and carrots, thin-sliced, crispy-roasted, and so tasty you want to just toss 'em in your mouth like popcorn. (All recipes below serve about 4.)



Moong Dal

Madhur Jaffrey says this simple recipe, beloved throughout India, regardless of caste, "can be used for the white urad dal, the salmon-colored masoor dal, and the large arhar or toovar dal as well." I used mung beans.

1 1/2 cups moong dal (aka mung beans)
2 cloves garlic, peeled
2 slices peeled fresh giner, 1 inch square and 1/8 inch thick
1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf parsley (or cilantro)
1 tbsp. ground turmeric
1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper
1 1/2 tbsp. kosher salt
1 1/2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
3 tbsp. ghee or vegetable oil
A pinch ground asafetida
1 tsp. whole cumin seeds
Lemon or lime wedges for garnish, optional

1. Clean and was dal thoroughly. Put dal in a heavy-bottomed 3-4-quart pot, add 5 cups of water, and bring to a boil. Remove the froth and scum that collects at top. Add the garlic, ginger, parsley, turmeric, and cayenne pepper. Cover, leaving the lid very slightly ajar, lower heat, and simmer for 45-75 minutes [note: the given recipe said 90 minutes. My dal was soft after 45.] Stir occasionally. When dal is cooked, add the salt and lemon juice.
2. In a skillet, heat the ghee or oil over medium-high flame. Add the asafetida and cumin seeds. As soon as the cumin seeds turn dark (this will only take a few seconds), pour the oil and spiced over the dal and serve with yakhni pulao, crispy fried onions, and roasted curry cauliflower and carrots.

Yakhni Pulao

Adapted from The Food of India. I didn't have whole cardamom or cinnamon sticks on hand, so I used ground. The recipe calls for only 15 minutes of simmering time. It was about 40 minutes until my rice was perfectly tender and the stock was absorbed. I used brown basmati rice, so that may explain the long cooking time.

1 cup brown basmati rice
2 cups chicken stock
6 tablespoons ghee or oil
1 teaspoon ground cardamom (or 5 pods)
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon (or 1 2-inch stick)
6 cloves
10 black peppercorns
2 bay leaves (or 4 Indian bay leaves, aka cassia leaves)
Salt
1 onion, VERY finely sliced.

1. Wash the rice in a sieve under cold running water and drain.
2. Heat the stock to near boiling in a saucepan.
3. Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons of the ghee or oil over medium heat in a large, heavy-based saucepan. Add the cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, peppercorns, and bay leaves and fry for 1 minute. Reduce the heat to low, add the rice, and stir constantly for 1 minute. Add the heated stock and a big pinch of salt and bring rapidly to a boil. Cover and simmer over low heat for 30-40 minutes. Leave the rice to stand for 10 minutes before uncovering. Lightly fluff with a fork.
4. Meanwhile, heat the remaining ghee or oil in a frying pan over low heat and fry the onion until soft. Increase the heat to medium-high and fry until the onion is dark brown. Drain on paper towels, then use as garnish.

Roasted Curry Cauliflower and Carrots

If the only cauliflower you've ever had is steamed, prepare yourself for a revelation. Sliced as thin as dollar coins and roasted 'til golden brown, they need just a dash of seasonings to become exciting. You can use almost any combination of flavors --- garlic and olive oil; lemon and thyme; mustard, honey and cayenne pepper --- to transport this basic dish to another continent.

1 cauliflower head, florets sliced 1/8-inch thick
4 carrots, slices into discs 1/8-inch thick
About 2 tablespoons ghee or vegetable oil
About 1 tablespoon mild curry
About 1 teaspoon cinnamon
About 2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Dash of cayenne pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Arrange cauliflower florets and carrots on a baking sheet, in (more or less) a single layer. Drizzle with melted ghee or oil. Bake for 15 minutes, tossing once or twice.
2. Remove sheet from oven and sprinkle vegetables with curry, cinnamon, salt, and pepper. Taste and adjust seasonings as needed. Return to oven and bake another 15 minutes, until the vegetables are starting to turn golden brown and are a bit dried and shriveled (trust me, in this case, it's a good thing).

One last photo: an Irish friend went to work for Google in India and had a Bollywood themed going away bash. My Dublin friends throw hands-down the best costume parties, because everyone takes it quite seriously and makes an effort to impress and humor their fellow revelers.

72 comments:

danny said...

The cauliflower looks good! I really like the flavors of Indian food, but sometimes I wish it would have more textures. Either way, it is still yum.

Nora Leah Sherman said...

Good point on textures. The food last night was really a big pile of (rather spicy) baby mush, except for the cauliflower. If I'd done a better job with the fried onions, that would have added a bit more cap'n crunch.

My issue with Indian food is how fatty it seems, between deep-fried samosas, buttery tikka, etc. But perhaps this is the Indian foods adapted to Western appetites, like LeeAnn Chin shrimp toasts as Chinese food?

danny said...

Never had LeeAnn Chin shrimp toasts... but I know what you mean about Americanized Chinese food! I'm not sure how many people in China actually know what General Tso's chicken is... but sometimes that stuff just hits the spot!

Nick said...

That's so cute that you made Moong Dal! Indian food is so tasty.
Found your blog via my Tumblr followers - thanks for adding me.

Dave, 'LunaPierCook' said...

My most recent boss was from India, and would take long vacations there. After he would be back and missing his homeland, we'd end up at lunch at one of the three decent Indian restaurants in Ann Arbor. I learned a lot of appreciation for both the culture and the food that way.

Fun story: At the Ann Arbor Art Fair a couple years ago, Mary and I were eating at one of these three restaurants. She dropped something on the front of her shirt ... and almost instantly the manager was there with a damp towel, asking "May I?" It was as though he'd been watching and waiting nearby! Her eyes went wide, and she grabbed the towel with an, "I can handle it ... thanks ...", with all the dripping sarcasm she could muster. Nah, we're not going back to that one!

Nora Leah Sherman said...

You'll forgive for saying this, but Mary must be a hottie! (And in fact, I've seen pics -- she IS. Lucky dog, you.)

And Nick: you have such a singular aesthetic and point of view, it's a pleasure to follow you.

Anonymous said...

hello nora I liked your thing on indian food!!!!!!! thats cool that you have a blog! do you have a good recipe on gulab jamun it's really yummy, but I've never been successful making it!

your cousin, Elia

Nora Leah Sherman said...

Hello dear Elia!

I'm so happy you enjoyed my post about Indian food. I've never made gulab jamun, but here's a recipe from "The Food of India." If you make it, let me know how it works out! (Take pictures & write your own mini-blog post!)

By the way, we should make some Indian food for Grandma Sulochana's big birthday party later this month. What are your favorites? Bring recipes! Can't wait to see you there!

Love,
Nora

Gulab Jamun

Note: Literally translated to mean "rose-flavored plum," gulab jamun is extremely popular Indian sweet made by soaking fried balls of chenna in syrup. A pinch of ground cardamom can be added to dough for extra flavor.

Syrup:
2 cups sugar
4-5 drops rosewater
Gulab Jamun:
1 cup low-fat powdered milk
2 tablespoons self-raising flour
2 tsp. fine semolina
2 tbsp. ghee
4 tbsp. milk, to mix
24 pistachio nuts (optional)
oil for deep-frying

Makes 24.

1. To make the syrup, put the sugar in a large heavy-based saucepan w 3 1/2 cups water. Stir over low heat to dissolve sugar. Increase the heat and boil for 3 mins. Stir in rosewater and remove from heat.

2. To make gulab jamun, combine powdered milk, flour, semolina & ghee in a bowl. Add enough milk to make soft dough, mix until smooth, then divide into 24 portions. If using pistachio nuts, press each piece of dough in the center to make a hole, fill with pistachio, then roll into ball. If not using pistachios, just roll each piece into a ball.

3. Fill a karhai or deep saucepan 1/3 full with oil. Heat to 150 degrees F (a cube of bread will brown in 30 secs) & fry balls over low heat until golden brown all over. Remove with a slotted spoon & transfer to the syrup. When all balls are in the syrup, bring syrup to boiling point, then remove from heat. Cool and serve at room temp.

Kimberly Ann said...

I've never been a fan of Indian food but I may have to give it another try. Thanks for sharing your recipes.

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